Photos 24-04-2012 Kathmandu to Delhi

Well, this is it. It's over, we're going home today, it was definitely an adventure, and despite the challenges we faced, when asked we all said we would do it again. Most likely we will!

Until the next time, Namaste Nepal!

As a last bonus, we were seated on the right side of the plane and presented with some fantastic views of the western Himalayas as we flew towards Delhi. Click below to see:



Despite of all the information from the horse's mouth so to speak i.e. Jet airways, it was possible to check-in our bags at Kathmandu's Tribhuvan airport right through to London; they gave us the boarding passes for the Delhi to London flight so we could just go through transit and miss all the delights of the Indian immigration, check-in and machine-gun guards behind armoured plated stations at the airport entrance.

Delhi was quite nice, went to a 'shop', an oasis of calm in the hectic aiport. Two musicians - one on sitar, the other on a snare drum - were playing nice, calming music. Two passengers were barefoot in a pool of shallow water, some were having a massage; we thought we stepped into Narnia. We nearly missed our flight, the tanoy announcement seemed out of place there.

 

Photos 23-04-2012 Swayambunath Stupa

After breakfast we went for a walk to Swayambunath Stupa (Devnagari: स्वयम्भूनाथ स्तुप; sometimes romanized Swoyambhunath). It is an ancient religious complex atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, west of Kathmandu city and it is also known as the Monkey Temple, as there are holy monkeys living in parts of the temple in the north-west.



We wanted to walk to the temple, but, quite often people would ask us if we wanted a taxi or rickshaw. The weather was warm and we were happy to walk with the help of the map on our phone.

We saw cows in the middle of the road, but the saddest thing we noticed was the amount of rubbish in the river and the smell of it.

We started climbing the steps to the top of the hill - it is said that there are 365 steps. On the side of the steps many vendors set up their stalls selling carved stones, jewelleries, embroideries, etc. Some children were collecting mullberries from the trees nearby.

Arriving at the top of the hill, we really enjoyed the walk around the stupa - with a nice background music from a CD selling stall - and the views of the capital. Apart from the other tourists, there were also local people, who were getting their blessings, and many, many vendors, trying to sell antiquities, books, paintings.

After a few times going around the stupa, trying to take pictures from different angles, we happily returned to the hotel, looking forward to a nice Mexican lunch.

Photos 23-04-2012 Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Inspired by Ron Fricke's non-narative film Baraka we set off bright and early (c. 5:30) to Kathmandu's famous Durbar Square to catch the first light and perhaps avoid the late madness. Alas when we arrived in the square, at 6 am, things were far from quiet. Nevertheless, we observed people's early morning routine and the changing light. It looked like most people had already set up their stalls, mostly with vegetables, but clothing and other miscellaneous items too. Others came specifically prepared to go to the temples and receive blessings. Many were lighting candles, some were ringing bells hanging near the temples. In one place, a cow and later a bull, were standing absolutely still among hundreds of pigeons fed by the locals. One cow was being fed near a vegetable stall, an other one (perhaps a bull, cannot remember) started licking the candles, and when discovered, a man started hitting it and chasing it away.

There must have been a police station nearby, as their presence was felt by the continuous coming and going of police and army vehicles.



After a while we decided to head back to the hotel to have breakfast, but on a different route. First, we watched vendors unpacking their goods in an antiques market and then we arrived at Indrachowk square and temple. This was the epitome of the hustle and bustle. Vendors, cars, rickshaws, rubbish, customers, tourists, horns, candles - absolutely incredible!

Not far from this, just down the road, we found a much quieter place - Katheshimbu stupa. This looked very similar to Swayambunath, much smaller.

 

Photos 22..23-04-2012 Kathmandu

Lukla to Kathmandu flight and some pictures from Kathmandu, including Kathesimbu Stupa.



In Kathmandu we stayed at Asmita's Bed and Breakfast, a nice, clean place, where we were happy to find very welcoming people. The first night we enjoyed a nice paella for dinner. Thank you Asmita and Dharma for your hospitality and help while staying in Kathmandu!

Lukla to Kathmandu

As planned, we turned up for breakfast at 5:30, the kitchen and dinning room was deserted. All times around here are approximate of course, not to worry. By 6 we finished breakfast and the call came that we should turn up at the airport "pronto". By 6:15 we were checked in, cleared security and were waiting for the plane to land. Within 20 minutes 5 planes landed, two from Agni Air , two from Tara Air and one from Sita Air and they were all promptly turned around without even stopping the propellers.

The flight was awesome, take off was akin to going down a slide over the edge of the cliff, it takes your breath away for a moment. (Check it out in 3D in Google Earth) The air cleared after yesterday's rain and the view was magnificent. We landed at 7:25 and got to the hotel by 8:00.

Did a quick tour in Thamel to replace the broken duffel bags and had a good shower.

Lukla Airport - Planespotting

Today we did a bit of planespotting; in fact our lodge is very close to the airstrip, we can see the planes landing and taking off from our room. The lodge owner has some strong connections with the airport, he seems to be organising air tickets, re-scheduling flights, we have seen him moving quite freely in the airport, being quite familiar with the staff. It would appear he's got a helicopter that he rents out. He's also got a radio tuned in to the control tower, he then tells his customers when their flight is due, listening in to the control tower radio chatter.

Below is one fine landing example: the SitaAir plane 9N-AHA. Note to self: don't book SitaAir in future!

****************** Update 28/09/2012 this aircraft has crashed during initial ascent, just outside Kathmandu, en route to Lukla . Details of accident click here *****************

 

And the take off wasn't that much better, it overran the marker by a bit.

 

Here is a slightly better landing, Agni Air 9N-AIE

 

There are 3 Tara Air, 2 Agni Air and 1 Sita Air planes doing the KTM-Lukla route and they fly back and forth as many times as needed, weather permitting. We were due to fly out at 9:30 on the third flight on a Agni Air plane. Unfortunately, the control tower in Kathmandu had a technical problem and the planes were delayed out of Kathmandu. By the time it was our turn, it started to rain heavily in Kathmandu and they suspended the flights. It cleared at around 2 pm in Kahmandu but by then a thunderstorm in Lukla closed the airport and the last two flights were cancelled. So it was back to our lodge, oficially called the Khumbu resort - I just call it the control tower - for another night. We are now due to fly out on an early flight, 7am or 8am, so it's an early start: 5:30 breakfast for 6am to the airport. The weather is expected to be good first thing in the morning so fingers crossed.

 

Photos 20-04-2012 Phakding to Lukla

On our last trekking day we finally managed to leave, as planned, at 7:30 in the morning. We had Spanish omelette with Tibetan bread and hot lemon, the same as on the way up.

We had a nice walk through the little villages dotted on our way. The birds were singing and the sun started to warm and lighten up the valley gradually. We admired the gardens and the green terraces some people had. We passed a place with a chorten (like a little stupa) and many prayer wheels and Many stones (the carved ones). We saw children walking to school and, later, tourists starting their treks. The weather must have been nice in Kathmandu too, we thought, because the planes arrived early.

Towards Chaurikarka, where the trail started to climb towards Lukla, the weather became warm and we felt quite tired and thirsty, as we run out of water. As soon as we arrived in Lukla we stopped at the first little shop to drink water. And surprise! We met the Italian couple that Eugen met at Dole. They had to come down by helicopter because Alfredo had bronchitis and was not feeling well.

After we promised to keep in touch with them Eugen rushed to the airport hoping to see some airplanes taking off. Eddie and I, we went to our lodge, Khumbu resort, as we felt tired. We had a nice Roesti for lunch.

Later that evening we took a nice walk to the airport and then through the village.

The evening was a bit noisy at the lodge: an Australian group were celebrating their last night with the guides and porters.

We went to bed with the hope of flying to Kathmandu the next day.