Inspired by Ron Fricke's non-narative film
Baraka we set off bright and early (c. 5:30) to Kathmandu's famous Durbar Square to catch the first light and perhaps avoid the late madness. Alas when we arrived in the square, at 6 am, things were far from quiet. Nevertheless, we observed people's early morning routine and the changing light. It looked like most people had already set up their stalls, mostly with vegetables, but clothing and other miscellaneous items too. Others came specifically prepared to go to the temples and receive blessings. Many were lighting candles, some were ringing bells hanging near the temples. In one place, a cow and later a bull, were standing absolutely still among hundreds of pigeons fed by the locals. One cow was being fed near a vegetable stall, an other one (perhaps a bull, cannot remember) started licking the candles, and when discovered, a man started hitting it and chasing it away.
There must have been a police station nearby, as their presence was felt by the continuous coming and going of police and army vehicles.
After a while we decided to head back to the hotel to have breakfast, but on a different route. First, we watched vendors unpacking their goods in an antiques market and then we arrived at Indrachowk square and temple. This was the epitome of the hustle and bustle. Vendors, cars, rickshaws, rubbish, customers, tourists, horns, candles - absolutely incredible!
Not far from this, just down the road, we found a much quieter place - Katheshimbu stupa. This looked very similar to Swayambunath, much smaller.
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